The City of Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Grapes in Urban Spaces
Every 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel railway carriage arrives at a spray-painted stop. Close by, a law enforcement alarm pierces the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers rush by falling apart, ivy-covered garden fences as storm clouds gather.
This is maybe the least likely spot you expect to find a well-established vineyard. However James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated 40 mature vines sagging with round purplish berries on a rambling allotment sandwiched between a line of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just above Bristol downtown.
"I've seen people concealing illegal substances or other items in the shrubbery," says Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you simply continue ... and keep tending to your grapevines."
Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is among several urban winemaker. He's organized a informal group of cultivators who make vintage from several discreet urban vineyards tucked away in private yards and allotments across Bristol. It is sufficiently underground to have an formal title yet, but the collective's WhatsApp group is named Grape Expectations.
City Wine Gardens Across the Globe
To date, the grower's allotment is the only one listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming world atlas, which includes better-known city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred plants on the hillsides of the French capital's historic artistic district neighbourhood and over three thousand grapevines overlooking and inside Turin. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the forefront of a initiative re-establishing city vineyards in historic wine-producing nations, but has identified them all over the globe, including urban centers in East Asia, South Asia and Uzbekistan.
"Vineyards help urban areas stay more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. They protect land from development by creating long-term, productive farming plots within cities," says the organization's leader.
Similar to other vintages, those produced in cities are a product of the earth the plants thrive in, the vagaries of the weather and the individuals who tend the grapes. "A bottle of wine represents the charm, local spirit, environment and heritage of a city," notes the spokesperson.
Mystery Eastern European Variety
Returning to Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to harvest the vines he cultivated from a plant abandoned in his allotment by a Eastern European household. Should the precipitation arrives, then the pigeons may seize their chance to attack again. "Here we have the enigmatic Polish grape," he comments, as he removes bruised and rotten berries from the glistering bunches. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they're definitely disease-resistant. Unlike noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you need not spray them with chemicals ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."
Group Activities Across Bristol
Additional participants of the collective are additionally taking advantage of bright periods between bursts of autumn rain. On the terrace overlooking Bristol's glistening waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with barrels of wine from Europe and Spain, one cultivator is harvesting her rondo grapes from approximately fifty vines. "I love the aroma of the grapevines. It is so evocative," she remarks, pausing with a container of fruit slung over her shoulder. "It's the scent of southern France when you roll down the vehicle windows on holiday."
The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has spent over two decades working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, unexpectedly inherited the grape garden when she returned to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her household in 2018. She felt an overwhelming duty to maintain the grapevines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has already endured three different owners," she says. "I deeply appreciate the concept of natural stewardship – of passing this on to future caretakers so they continue producing from the soil."
Sloping Gardens and Traditional Winemaking
A short walk away, the final two members of the group are busily laboring on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has established more than one hundred fifty vines perched on ledges in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the muddy River Avon. "People are always surprised," she notes, indicating the interwoven vineyard. "They can't believe they can see rows of vines in a city street."
Today, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting bunches of deep violet Rondo grapes from lines of vines slung across the hillside with the assistance of her daughter, her family member. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to Netflix's nature programming and television network's Gardeners' World, was motivated to plant grapes after seeing her neighbor's vines. She's discovered that hobbyists can make intriguing, enjoyable natural wine, which can command prices of upwards of £7 a glass in the growing number of establishments focusing on minimal-intervention vintages. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can truly make good, traditional vintage," she says. "It is quite on trend, but really it's reviving an old way of making vintage."
"When I tread the grapes, the various natural microorganisms come off the surfaces and enter the liquid," says the winemaker, ankle deep in a container of tiny stems, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how wines were historically produced, but industrial wineries introduce sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the natural cultures and then add a lab-grown culture."
Difficult Conditions and Inventive Solutions
A few doors down active senior another cultivator, who inspired his neighbor to plant her grapevines, has gathered his companions to harvest white wine varieties from one hundred vines he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who worked at the local university developed a passion for viticulture on regular visits to Europe. But it is a challenge to cultivate this particular variety in the dampness of the valley, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to make Burgundian wines in this location, which is a bit bonkers," admits Reeve with amusement. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."
"I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers"
The temperamental Bristol climate is not the only problem encountered by grape cultivators. The gardener has been compelled to install a fence on